Jack Geldard gaining the Brittle Ledges, Eiger North Face, kb . to be very accurate, but the B&W photo topo was not very useful. Although the north face of the Eiger has several routes, by far the most famous and popular is the original route – known as The route. This free topo and. Topo map · Swisstopo Grindelwald. Geology. Mountain type · Limestone. Climbing. First ascent, 11 August Easiest route, basic rock/snow/ice climb ( AD). The Eiger is a 3,metre (13, ft) mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald The two stations within the Eiger are Eigerwand ( behind the north face) and.
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There are routes which every alpine climber want to do. Today Heckmair Route is hard classic alpine route and usually teams needs 2 days of climbing. But speed record is below 3 hours…. Below you have description and topo of Heckmair Route. Original article in polish you will find here: On Heckmair Route are fixed lines Hinterstoiser Traverse, etc.
Eiger North Face Route Winter Ascent Beta and Free Topo |
These days the most popular time for climbing on North Face of Eiger is late nortn, winter, and early spring. In summer — due to global warming — conditions are not good. A lot of loose rock which in winter are frozen and falling stones. You will find old pitons, some bolts. On harder pitches protection is better.
In summer much more – There are some fixed lines but be careful. Some of them are not in good shape ; – Do proper acclimatization. In higher parts of the route, you must be quick. Maybe tray something easy and quick like Breithorn.
Eiger – 1938 Route North Face
To Grindenwald go eoger your own car 40 euros for a vignette on a highway. There you will find accommodation on campings euro or apartments from 60 franks. Grindelwald lay on m a.
The base of Eiger North Face on m a. The best option is to go by small historic train. Egier go to Kleinescheidegg m and after that to station Eigergletscher. From there we go to base of the wall short traverse. We start on the right side of First Pillar northh meters and follow the easiest line. There are many variations, but all are quite easy with some short rock sections. After meters at the Shattered Pillar height we go to the right facs soon to the left.
Traverse on snow ledges and when you will be on snowfield with overhang wall above then you go toopo meters to right. There will be Difficult Crack Belay pegs, old slings. One pitch and we are on Belay. From there you go to the left to small rock Dihedral.
After that, you have easy snow terrain which leads you to Hinterstoisser Traverse. Travers is very hard for mixed climbing. Almost without steps and holds. After 30 seconds I decided to aid this: There are 60 meters of fixed lines traverse and small chimney.
Pitch end on belay on beginning First Icefield. Now we are on Second Ice Field. We go straight ahead to rocks.
After that run to the left, across the icefield to the upper left corner. There climb chimney, groove and easy terrain to the Death Bivvy. On the Death Bivvy, you will find a place snow ledge for 4 persons.
Clean rock and lot of old pegs and bolts. The Death Bivvy is probably the best place to spend a night, but if you are here very early From the Death Bivvy, we traverse to a big ramp. There are pitches circa m of climbing. Including Ice Chimney M7 in good conditions, a lot of pitons. In the middle of The Ramp is Spanish Bivvy, but is weak…. Above the Ice chimney is one small wall — hard and demanding. After that is easy climbing in snow and ice. We go to the start of Brittle Ledges possibly bivy.
After the Brittle Crack, you will find a flat place for a bivy one team. I’m not sure, but place probably is windy.
And then you have The Traverse of the Gods. Quite exposed but easy max IV. From eoger retreat was difficult. Climb m to the right big Gully. Be careful not to go to left, big corner with ice — but hard. Once more meters of climbing in a gully and you will be at the base of The Quartz Crack. After that you traverse to the left and climb a small crack nortj the big pulpit.
Here you will find fixed lines which lead you to the Exit Chimneys. The Exit Chimneys can be pretty hard but only IV in weak conditions. Above them eigr be a ridge. To summit, you need minutes of climbing. If you want more mountaineering topo articles in future, then click to like funpage WinterClimb.
We had double 60 m rope, but I think that better morth be single 60 m rope for climbers who have enough experience. We descent by normal route on Eiger West Face. In good conditions descent took circa 3 hours to Eigergletscher. Here you will find more info: Climbing trainer in Cracow. Owner of blog drytooling.
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Here you have some tips: Last modified onMonday, 07 November Rate this item 1 2 3 4 5 7 votes. Damian Granowski Climbing trainer in Cracow. Related items Eiger west face on skis More in this category: